I was able to make it back to Wahoo to get a little wrench time in, and I was also able to get quite a few housecleaning things done in preparation for engine installation.
I installed my fuel line AN adapters that I had bought a few months back. The thing is, I had forgotten about these and ordered a couple from Jegs just last week of a little different style. The style I installed on the lines over the weekend consist of a aluminum tube nut, sleeve, and a union. I am a little leery on the connection, however. Basically, the connection is made via the tube sleeve. This tube sleeve is secured by tapping it onto the outside diameter of the tube, and then everything else grabs onto a raised lip of the tube. My worry is that the seal between the stainless steel hard line and the tube won’t be sufficient and may end up spraying fuel all over. Hopefully this isn’t the case, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it does end up happening. If this is the case, I’ll simply pull them off and try my Jegs fittings with the brass ferrule that is rated at 250 PSI.
Following this, I was able to finish up my rear suspension by reinstalling the differential cover onto the differential itself. Once the differential was up in the car, I was able to attach the CV axles and stitch all the rear suspension components back together. The car can technically come down off the jack stands at this point, but I would like to install the gas tank before I do so. I know I will have to put it on the ground to drop the motor in because my cherry picker won’t reach high enough to clear the radiator support.
I also made it a priority to get my brake booster, intercooler mount, and backing plate painted before I wrapped things up for the weekend. They received a coat of black POR 15, just like the engine bay. I think they turned out pretty decent.
I also returned home to find that my OBX 4″ down pipe had arrived. I have to make a couple of comments about this piece, because I’m a little leery about the fitment. The down pipe is actually a V band 3″ down pipe off the turbo that flares out to a 4″. I decided to pick this piece up because it has a tight radius bend to clear to firewall and, well, its big! I know that a 4″ piece isn’t necessary, but like I said, it turned out to be a tight bend that I need and its a nice stainless steel piece. The tricky thing will be trying to install the wideband sensor into the down pipe while it’s on the car. The sensor bung locations are position such that it’ll either cause the sensor to hit the firewall or the sensor will interfere with the external waste gate pipe plumbing or engine itself. I’m still unsure if this piece will even work, but we will find out. Honestly, I’m not even sure it will clear the firewall.
I was also able to make my hole for the body wiring harness in the wheel well. If you look back a few posts, you’ll remember that I closed up a bunch of miscellaneous holes in the engine bay to clean things up, and the body harness hole was one of them. I have simply relocated the holes to the adjacent side of the fender wall to clean things up engine the engine bay. I plan to run the wiring down along the seam where the body meets the frame and secure the harness with some of those rubber wiring brackets. This should allow me to tuck the wires out of sight and allow me to achieve the minimalism that I’m striving for.
That sums up the work I did over the weekend. Next weekend, I hope to drop the engine into the car and start mocking things up and making adjustments for things such as the down pipe fitment and throttle cable installation. I will also start drawing up my new wiring diagram for my trio of coils and Megasquirt I will be running on the car.