Yes, I’m still alive.

I’ve been away from posting here out of laziness and the fact that I recorded all my 510 progress simply by posting my photos to my personal Facebook photo album. Additionally, I’ve since purchased a house and have been through a couple big transitions in life and have finally sat down to regroup and focus on developing a storyline on this blog to document the progress of the new setup on the Z car.

Ah yes, I haven’t explained that bit yet. The 240Z is has gone under the knife. I’ve since sold the old L28ET and entire R200 rear end assembly in favor of a Toyota 2JZ-GE and twin turbo 300zx rear end setup. The reason for switching to the twin cam inline 6 power:

  • The aftermarket support for the 2JZ engine is enormous. Even though this platform is 25+ years old, it still holds it’s own against today’s heavy hitters and technology.
  • I wanted more power. The L28 was a great engine, and still is. But making more power with that setup just wouldn’t be feasible without some serious custom work and there is little to no aftermarket support. It’s a very old platform.
  • Transmission options aren’t there for the L28. I’ve heard of guys making an attempt at adapting transmissions, but at the end of the day, you aren’t going to be making enough power out of the L28 to justify it.

I’ll soon outline the goals for this project and document my progress along the way in the form of this blog as well as my YouTube channel.

Breathing new life into the Z

To kick this thing off, I finally cracked the car cover off the Z (err, sort of) and planned to install the R230 under the car. The kit I am using is the Complete R200, R230 Rear End Conversion for the Z car from Techno Toy Tuning. This kit includes a TON of parts, including:

  • Full rear coilovers with fabricated strut tubes, incorporating camber adjustment
  • Koni short stroke adjustable rear shocks
  • Your choice of Eibach ERS springs
  • Rear weld in camber plates or bolt in camber plates, your coice.
  • Backing Plates to mount the late model hubs on
  • New axle shafts (you send us your CV’s and we convert them over and rebuild them completely for you)
  • New drop mounts for the rear lower control arms
  • New Dogbone tying it all together
  • New Mustache bar tailored to the exact diff you will be using
  • New front diff mount for the exact diff you will be using

This kit is pretty serious. I looked at a number of other options but at the end of the day, this kit is going to support any kind of power level I’ll ever throw at it, it maintains the factory 240z suspension geometry and it’s (mostly) a bolt in kit.

Sold the previous rear end setup a couple months back – this is how it currently looks.

For some time now, the car has been sitting on jack stands as you see above. I’m moving my entire operation to my new house and need to put this thing back on the ground with the new rear end setup. This will be a good opportunity for me to test fit the kit and make sure I have all the pieces before I send everything off to the powdercoater.

Getting the R230 kit ready to test fit

I think I spent a good 2-3 hours bolting and unbolting the drop mounts because I had them on backwards and the access to the allen head bolts was nearly impossible. At any rate, around 9:00 PM I was finally able to make sense of things and push the rear end up into the car and mount it.

Rear differential making contact with the body

Shit. Of course this wouldn’t go as planned. As I’m raising the differential, I noticed that before the mustache bar end bushings were totally seated up against the body, my differential started making contact with the body. The one gripe I have with this kit is lack of physical instructions.

Notice the mustache bar end link position. It needs to go higher.

So as it turns out, the frame bar on the body that the differential is making contact with must be notched and boxed in in order to make this differential work.


I spent a good hour refitting, adding washers to the mustache bar, questioning my competence, etc. Again, instructions are a *huge* help. Nowhere in their documentation did it say anything about notching the frame.

As I mentioned, I’ll need to notch the frame and box it in to get this thing in the car. That’ll be for another day. In the meantime, I’m sick as hell and trying to recover. It wasn’t fun battling this thing while feeling like absolute shit.

Next time, I’ll likely have a notch cut out of the car and the differential mounted.

Make sure to check back for updates on Project 2J-Z!